Major and Minor Defects in Garment Production

Major, Minor and critical Defects are the part of classification given to the flaws while inspecting the fabrics or garments.The classification depends upon the severity of the defect and forms a basis of acceptance or rejection of the lot. 

Consideration in classifiying the defects as major or minor is taken on the basis of the affect on saleability of the garment, location of the defect and conspicuousness of the defect. 

In this document , the location of the defect( the zone) is shown in various garments which make a defect serious or insignificant. There is also a comprihensive list of the critical defects.
An analysis of Fabric defects according to their severity as major or minor can be found in this document. 

This document is in the form of a contract but it deals brilliantly with all the quality issues including the defects. 

The Following is an indicative list that can be followed to ascertain if a defect is a minor or a major defect in a garment:

Seam and Stitching

Major Defects:

1. Stitch Requirements
a. Inside 8-10 SPI
b. topstitch 8.9 SPI
c. Other requirement as specified

2. Seam grain
3. Thread breaks
4. Feed damage
5. Excessive amount on skip stitches ( 2 or more)
6. Pleat in seam (other than required by style)
7. Poorly repaired seams
8. Broken stitches two or more if conspicuous.
9. Conspicuous needle damage hole.
10. Open seam raw edges or frayed materials
11. Uneven stitch density, staggered stitch
12. Too many stitches giving rise to jumping and rupture of fabrics and few to grinning and weak seams
13. Wrong stitch density
14. Run off stitch.
15. Omitted sewing i.e. top stitch, button hole, snap, velcro etc.
16. Serious, uneven edge of seam ie bottom of waistband, right to left seam matching, pocket mouth etc.
17. Double stitching and poorly repairs affecting the appearance and service.
18. Improperly formed stitch or loose tension of stitches causing loops on surface easily pulled out.
19. Stitch tension which breaks under normal stress.
20. Wrong colour match thread
21. Napped fabric-cut or sewing in the wrong direction or mixed in the garment causing shading. 
22. Wrong seam type or stitch type used
23. Blind stitching showing on the face side.
24. Reverse garment parts.
25. Extraneous part caught in seam.
26. Mismatched seam.
27. Mismatched checks or stripes
28. Any twisted, loosen, tighten, puckered or pleated or overlapped seam.
29. Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line "run-offs"
30. Incorrect or uneven width of inlay i.e. seams burst open, raw edges show slippage of weave threads. 

Assembly Defect

Major Defects

1. Finished Components not correct to size or shape or not symmetical

2. Finished garment not to size.

3. Measurements not within tolerance.

4. Parts, components, closures or features omitted ( i.e. Belt loop, snap or button)

5. Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

6. Interlining incorrectly positioned twisted, too full, too tight, cockling

7. Garment parts, cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness.

8. Garment parts shaded or shading in fabric.

Minor Defects:

1. Loose Thread not removed

Small Parts
Major Defects1. Rib Knit set crooked-off, grain holes or runs in knit.
2. Misshaped collars and cuffs
3. Misshaped Tabs
Zippers
Major Defects1. Zipper more than 3/8" from bottom.
2. Poorly set zipper causing closure problems.
3.Twisting of the zipper caused by the top stitching of the zipper front.
4. Poorly set zipper causing waviness in the front.
Minor Defects1. Twisting of the zipper front caused by the top stitching of the zipper front.
2. Setting front ( or facing ) too close to the teeth so that the slider cannot properly function.
Button/buttonholes
Major Defects
1. Button and button holes not set in proper positions or out of alignment.
2. Uncut buttonholes/ missing button/ snap fasteners/ buckles/ zippers etc.
3. Not set in proper position
4. Defective or rusted hardware
5. Hardware not according to the specification in size, color, shape.
6. Snap coming off tacks ( Bartacks)
7. Omitted or misplaced or rivet not servicing its intended purpose/improper length.
Minor Defects
1. Too few stitches in the buttonhole.
2. Buttonhole too large or too small for the button.
3. Button not securely sewn.