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Sunday, 29 September 2013

Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used. This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency. 

 
Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Features of Straight Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. The main parts of this machine are straight knife, electric motor, handle, grinder, base plate, stand/ knife holder, lubricating unit, wheel etc.
  2. Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
  3. Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm.
  4. Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
  5. Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000.
  6. Auto grinder is used.
  7. Auto lubricating unit works for this machine.
  8. Different types of knife edge are used for cutting different objects. Such as, straight edge, wave edge, sew edge & serrated edge.
  9. A Handle for the cutter to direct the Knife.
  10. Knife guard is attached to the front of the knife.
  11. Sharp & heavy corners can be cut.
  12. Maximum 70% of knife height is used for fabric lay.
  13. Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly.
  14. Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
  15. Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That increases the risk of fabric damage.
Advantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of knife & r.p.m. of the motor. So, productivity is high.
  2. Automatic grinding.
  3. Automatically lubrication.
  4. Comparatively cheep.
  5. Can be moved easily by wheel.
  6. Suitable for straight line & curve line.
  7. Can be cut high curve line than round knife.
  8. Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.
  2. Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
  3. Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.
  4. Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
  5. Knife required to replace.

Round Knife Cutting Machine

Round Knife Cutting Machine:
This machine is called round knife cutting machine because its cutter is round but slightly octagonal in shape. This machine is small in size, flexible & used for small production. It is also a popular cutting machine. 
 
 
 
 
Fig: Round Knife Cutting Machine
Features of Round Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
  2. The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle & knife guard.
  3. Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
  4. Manual grinder is used.
  5. Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
  6. A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
  7. Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
  8. Knife is lubricating manually.
  9. Three types of knife edge can be used for cutting different objects. Such as, waved edge, toothed edge & circular edge.
  10. A round knife rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric.
  11. Flexible movement helps to cut non linear shape.
  12. Base plate gives support for fabric.
  13. Maximum 40% of the knife diameter can be used for fabric lay.
Advantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
  2. Easy to handle & operate.
  3. Suitable for small scale cutting.
  4. Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
  5. To cut the larger part of the garments.
  6. With a same r.p.m. its efficiency is 10 times greater than the straight knife.
Disadvantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:
  1. Very low r.p.m. & knife height.
  2. Manual grinder is used.
  3. Low productivity since few number of lay can be cut.
  4. Difficult to cut small components & high curve line.
  5. Not suitable for large production.
  6. Lubrication is manually done.
Uses/Application of Round Knife Cutting Machine: 
It’s useful for gentle curve line cutting, big parts cutting, cutting out fabric block from lay & small scale cutting. It’s normally use for small production. 

Band Knife Cutting Machine

Band Knife Cutting Machine:
Band knife cutting machine is an endless and looks like a loop. It is used for the cutting of fabric rolls without cardboard-inner tube. It is important instrument of cutting fabrics. This cutting machine works automatically according to the height of the relevant material. This machine is with special blower decreases resistance between fabrics and table,which enables the fabrics be moved easily and be cut precisely. And it could adjustable speed to fit different fabrics. Band knife cutting machines have been recognized around the world for many years for their high quality even when faced with difficult customer-related conditions and in applications with demanding materials. 

Fig: Round Knife Cutting Machine
Features of Band Knife Cutting Machine::
  1. It comprises a series of three or more pulleys,which provide the continuous rotating motion of the knife .
  2. An endless knife is used here.
  3. Knife is usually narrower than on a straight knife.
  4. A large size of table is used to support the fabric & for cutting.
  5. Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
  6. Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
  7. Automatic grinder is used.
  8. In this method machine is stationary but fabric is movable.
  9. High speed r.p.m. motor is used.
  10. Required a large space for it.
  11. This is like a saw mill cutter.
  12. Knife life time depends on fabric type & uses of machine.
Advantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine: 
  1. Suitable for any types of line.
  2. Very large productivity for limited product
  3. Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
  4. Automatic grinder grind the knife instantly
  5. Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth movement of fabric.
  6. Possible to cut 90angle of the lay.
  7. Intensity of accident is low.
Disadvantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:
  1. Not suitable for large component due to the length of the table.
  2. Work load is high as machine is stationary & fabric is movable.
  3. Running cost is higher.
  4. Required fix space.
  5. Not possible to cut fabric directly. 

Process Sequence in Cutting Room

Cutting section is one of the most important section for manufacturing garments in Garments Factory.There is a process or sequence which is strictly followed in the cutting section of a garment manufacturing industry.

Process Sequence in Cutting Room: 

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting

Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing/Assembling

Operation of Cutting During Garments Manufacturing are given below in details: 

Marker Making:
The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step.Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Fabric Spreading:
With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in reaches or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric pieces) thick.

Cutting:
The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters having similar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.

Sorting/Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them. This step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style size and the marker too is attached with it.

Sewing/Assembling:
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process.

There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make. These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.

process Sequence of Garments Manufacturing

The clothing creation running actions and methods included in the developing outfits for the huge of creation in company time frame for company reasons is known as outfits developing technologies. On industrial basis there are certain areas or sequence through which garments are manufactured.


Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:
Design / Sketch
Pattern Design
Sample Making
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Spreading
Cutting
Sorting/Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Inspection
Pressing/ Finishing
Final Inspection
Packing
Despatch

Sequence of Garments Manufacturing are given below in details: 

1. Design/ Sketch: 
In the garment manufacturing the first step is designing the sketch for the dresses that have to be prepared. For this purpose the designer first draw several rough sketches in the sketch book. The designer does not go for details at this moment but he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many sketches. Later these sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them. These few sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of a single collection. The designer also draws working drawings along with the sketch. Working drawings are flat drawing of the sketch and it help pattern maker in understanding the patterns involved in the construction.

2. Pattern Design: 
Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer.

3. Sample Making:
 
The first patterns are sent to the sewing unit for assembling them into garment. This is usually stitched on calico or muslin which is an inferior quality of fabric and it reduces cost. This sample is constructed to analyze the pattern fit and design too. After the sample garment is stitched it is reviewed by a panel of designers, pattern makers and sewing specialists. If any changes have to be made they are made at this time.

4. Production Pattern:
 

The pattern design is now taken for creating the production patterns. The production pattern is one which will be used for huge production of garments. The pattern maker makes the patterns on standard pattern making paper. These papers are made-up of various grades. The most important component, the tissue paper pattern, is made from the lightest and thinnest paper commercially available (it is not made at the pattern companies). It is called 7.5 lb (3.4 kg) basis paper, meaning that a ream of it (500 sheets) only weighs 7.5 lb (3.4 kg).

Garment patterns can be constructed by two means: manual method, CAD/CAM method. Today many companies have developed CAD/CAM because of the ease of designing patterns, fluency and precision involved which cannot be guaranteed with the manual method. Investing once into the CAD/CAM unit is worth in itself. Many buyers around the world prefer manufacturers who are using CAD/CAM methods. The production patterns created in CAD/CAM can be stored easily and they can be modified at any point of time.

A garment sewing pattern or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: -

1. Direct Sample.
2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.
3. Actual body size measurements.
4. Ease Allowances.
5. Sewing Allowance.

These allowances are different for different type of fabrics and patterns.

5. Grading: 
The purpose of grading is to create patterns in different standard sizes. Grading a pattern is really scaling a pattern up or down in order to adjust it for multiple sizes. Pattern sizes can be large, medium and small or else there are standard patterns of size 10, 12, 14, 16 and so on for different figure and statures sizes. This is generally how we get S M L XL XXL sizing. Pattern grading by manual method is a cumbersome task because the grader has to alter the pattern on each and every point from armhole, to neckline, sleeve cap and wrist etc. by using CAD it is much easier and faster.

6. Marker Making:
 
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption calculations.

7. Spreading: 
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.

8. Fabric Cutting:
 On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.

9. Sorting/ Bundling: 
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

10. Sewing or Assembling:
 It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on design and out put quantity of garment.

11. Inspection: 
Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correctionable, then the garment is separated as wastage.

12. Pressing/ Finishing: 
After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension.

13. Final Inspection:
 It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing.

14. Packing: 
 After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily. 
15. Despatch: 
The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the despatch department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

Different Sections Garment manufacturing industry

Here are all of the sections of a garment industry have been described briefly. 

1. Sample section
2. Cutting section
3. Sewing section
4. Finishing section

1. Sample Section :
It is the first section of garment manufacturing process. This section is used in apparel industry for-

a) To make sample garment for approval.
b) To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed.

2. Cutting Section : 
It is the second section of apparel manufacturing. In this section the following works are completed-

a) Marker Making
b) Fabric Spreading
c) Fabric Cutting

3. Sewing Section : 
Garment’s cut parts are assembled here.

4. Finishing Section : 
It is the last step of garment making. All of the finishing processes are done here. Let yourself know what kinds of work are to be carried out in this segment-

a) Pressing/ Ironing
b) Packing
c) Cartooning &
d) Arranging final inspection and shipment. 

Process Flow Chart of Merchandising and its function

Merchandising
Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments.It is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of commercial activity.It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.

Merchandiser
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she develops colors and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs strong communication and negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.

Types of Merchandising:
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
  1. Marketing merchandising.
  2. Product merchandising.
Marketing Merchandising:
Main function of marketing merchandising is
  1. Product Development
  2. Costing
Ordering Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct contact with the buyer. 

Product Merchandising:
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:

  • Product Development
  • Market and product Analysis
  • Selling the concept
  • Booking orders
  • Confirming Deliveries
  • Designing and Sampling
  • Costing
  • Raw Material
  • Flow Monitoring
  • Production Follow Ups
  • Payments Follows
  • Internal & external communication,
  • Sampling
  • Lab dips
  • Accessories & trims
  • Preparing internal order sheets
  • Preparing purchase orders
  • Advising and assisting production,
  • Advising quality department about quality level
  • Mediating production and quality departments
  • Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
  • Helping documentation department
  • Taking responsibility for inspections and
  • Following up the shipment. 
Structure and Functioning of Merchandising

 


Process Flow Chart of Merchandising: 

Receive product package form buyer 
↓ 
Sample development 
↓ 
Price negotiation 
↓ 
Order confirmation and receive order sheet. 
↓ 
Sourcing low good quality right time 
↓ 
Material collection and receive it in factory 
↓ 
Check and listing 
↓ 
Swart card making and approval 
↓ 
Pre production meeting 
↓ 
Daily collect daily production report and daily quality report 
↓ 
Arrange final inspection 
↓ 
Shipment